The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) has announced a significant milestone for Uzbekistan, a country previously criticized for child labor in its cotton industry. In a progressive move, Uzbekistan will cover the expenses associated with certifying farms and producers that conform to BCI standards.
This new initiative will be managed by the recently established Uzbekistan Light Industries Agency and is part of a broader strategy created last year by the Uzbek Ministry of Agriculture alongside the Uzbekistan association of textile and apparel industries (Uztekstilprom).
Katerina Gorbunova, the BCI program manager for Uzbekistan, remarked, “Certification costs can significantly hinder market access, not only for cotton-growing cooperatives in Uzbekistan but for farmers globally. The establishment of this grant scheme is pivotal for enhancing the industry’s commitment to sustainable practices.”
Operating since 2023 after a pilot program that began in 2017 involving 12 significant local cotton farms, BCI aims to champion best practices in cotton farming. Its certification label has become synonymous with quality assurance for buyers, instilling confidence in sourcing sustainable cotton.
The Cotton Campaign, a notable global NGO and longstanding critic of Uzbekistan’s cotton sector, lifted Uzbekistan off its blacklist on March 10, 2022. This decision was bolstered by the International Labour Organisation’s acknowledgment that forced and child labor issues in the nation had been addressed.
However, concerns have been raised by the Cotton Campaign about swift expansions in Uzbek cotton exports. The organization’s warning highlights that aggressive production goals set by the Uzbek government may pressure local officials to engage in coercion and extortion to compensate for a dwindling pool of voluntary laborers.
According to Textile Exchange, Uzbekistan produced 109,470 tons of cotton in 2024, with a mere 3% being BCI-certified. Additionally, the U.S. Department of Commerce recognizes Uzbekistan as the eighth-largest cotton producer worldwide.
The global cotton output experienced a staggering 19% reduction in 2024, while cotton still constituted 20% of worldwide fiber production. Despite its significance, cotton’s share pales in comparison to polyester, which dominates with a 59% slice of the market.
