Manish Malhotra, a prominent name in the Indian fashion industry, recently celebrated 35 remarkable years as a costume designer, stylist, and fashion designer.
In 2005, he launched his eponymous fashion label, which has become synonymous with couture, bridal wear, and unique diffusion lines. Over the years, Manish has expanded his creative horizons, venturing into various realms like jewelry, beauty, and film production.
FashionNetwork.com had the opportunity to chat with him about his brand’s growth strategies, the landscape of the luxury market, his commitment to sustainable fashion, his collaboration with Reliance Brands, and his exciting new venture in film production.
Manish Malhotra: My journey has been incredibly fulfilling, marked by passion, challenges, and immense growth. It all began with my childhood fascination with films. Growing up in Bombay, I was mesmerized by the magic of cinema—how every detail, from costumes to sets, contributed to a larger story. That childhood wonder pushed me towards fashion, kicking off my career as a costume designer in the film industry. My first big break was designing for Juhi Chawla in the film “Swarg,” which opened doors to new possibilities I had only dreamed of. Of course, there were hurdles along the way, but I’ve always embraced a positive mindset, believing that just like life, fashion is about evolving. Over the years, I’ve transitioned from costume design to haute couture, high jewelry, and now, filmmaking. Each phase has enriched my understanding of creativity, adaptability, and the importance of remaining true to my vision.
MM: Costume design in cinema has transformed in truly fascinating ways. When I started in the 90s, the focus was on glamour and creating iconic, aspirational looks that lingered in the audience’s memory long after the film ended. There was a certain magic to that. Nowadays, the landscape has shifted; there’s a pronounced emphasis on realism and character-driven design. As a designer, this pushes me to dive deeper into understanding a character’s psychology before I even sketch a silhouette.
Social media has changed the game completely. In the past, you’d watch a film and perhaps read about it in a magazine weeks later. Now, a look from a movie set, an airport sighting, or a wedding can go viral in mere seconds. There’s a constant hunger for personal style, both on-screen and off. This shift means that the line between costume and personal fashion has become increasingly blurred, and consumer behavior now heavily influences the industry. Fashion has become more immediate and impactful.
MM: When I first introduced the idea of a ‘showstopper,’ it was a deeply personal decision, not merely a marketing strategy. My first showstopper was Urmila Matondkar, a dear friend. Back then, we were all passionate young creators looking to innovate. Many of those early showstoppers, like Kareena, Rani, Preity, and Karisma, were not just models but friends. It was about storytelling and intersecting the worlds of cinema and couture, something I’ve always believed in.
I absolutely acknowledge the debate around this topic. There are designers who choose not to feature celebrities, and I wholeheartedly respect that. However, I believe when a star walks the runway, particularly when it’s done authentically, it elevates the vibe, brings visibility, and can even democratize the audience’s experience. But this doesn’t mean I compromise on craftsmanship. The outfits should speak for themselves—the embroidery, the silhouettes, the artistry. Whether it’s a model or a showstopper, they’re wearing a story that I’ve created.
I also hold that models are the backbone of any fashion presentation. They bring their unique magic, talent, and aura. They know how to carry a garment with finesse, and that skill is an art form in itself. I’ve worked with phenomenal models who have brought my vision to life in ways that words can’t articulate. So it’s never a matter of one versus the other—it’s about harmony. It’s when models, muses, and memorable moments unite that something truly unforgettable emerges.
MM: The unprecedented rise of India’s luxury market is not just an economic shift; it’s a cultural awakening as well. As we approach that projected $200 billion mark by 2030, we’re witnessing the emergence of a new Indian narrative—one that is assertively global yet deeply rooted in tradition. I’ve come to realize that luxury, whether in India or elsewhere, has evolved beyond mere extravagance; it’s about personal expression, craftsmanship, and legacy.
In that light, the influx of global luxury brands into India poses not as a challenge, but as context for us. It compels us to refine our voice, elevate our craft, and establish our distinct identity. The world is finally recognizing India as a cultural powerhouse, deserving of respect rather than mere commercial interest. For those of us who have steadfastly believed in the artistry of Indian craftsmanship, this represents a renaissance. This is our moment to shine.
In 2021, when we took a significant step by forming a partnership with Reliance, it was more than just a business move; it was about finding the right match for a journey that I’ve been deeply passionate about. Reliance embodies a profound understanding of the Indian consumer, woven together with a global perspective and quality that is truly inspiring. It felt less like a strategic investment and more like a shared dream. Together, we forge ahead with trust and ambition, paving the way for boundless possibilities in our brand’s future.
As for our growth trajectory, we’re committed to constantly pushing boundaries and exploring new horizons. Our collaboration with Reliance enables us to tap into unique resources and expertise, allowing us to not only refine our existing offerings but also dream beyond the horizon. This partnership represents a blend of craftsmanship and innovation that can lead us into unexplored territories in fashion.
Entering the global stage is on our radar. The world of fashion is dynamic, and it’s all about adapting to the evolving landscape while staying true to our roots. While I can’t divulge every detail just yet, I want to assure you that expanding our footprint beyond our current clientele is part of our vision. Fashion is fluid; it speaks in various dialects across cultures. Our Indian heritage beautifully interlaced with contemporary styles can resonate with different audiences worldwide. However, it’s essential to remember that such journeys take time and thoughtfulness. We are committed to respecting our heritage while navigating our way into new markets.
There’s an interesting shift happening in the luxury fashion world as well, where many brands find themselves developing affordable lines to attract a broader audience. I see this trend not just as a challenge but as an opportunity for us to evolve without compromising the essence of luxury. This is why we launched the MM Ready to Wear line—a more accessible collection that allows everyday individuals to enjoy the elegance and charm of my designs. After all, fashion is about celebrating life’s moments. Every bride, every individual deserves to feel special, and we’re here to honor that sentiment across different price points.
While inclusivity is essential, who we are as a luxury brand will always sing in the notes of exclusivity. Couture has a unique ability to create personal connections between the garment and wearer, a relationship that is integral to our design ethos. As we broaden our audience, our foundational values remain unwavering.
The shift towards sustainability is another crucial aspect of our brand transformation. I view sustainability as a fundamental value rather than a mere trend. My decades of experience in fashion have taught me the significance of craftsmanship, the love imbued in handwoven textiles, and the stories each piece carries. We collaborate closely with artisans throughout India, intertwining age-old techniques with modern aesthetics. Every item we create is intended to be cherished rather than discarded—pieces that can be lovingly worn again and again. If fast fashion is about speed, then I prefer to represent depth and significance. I’m firm in my belief that fashion and sustainability are not mutually exclusive; they can harmonize when approached with earnest intent.
Moreover, as I venture into film production with Stage5, it feels natural to explore a medium that has always captivated me. Though my roots are deeply entrenched in fashion, storytelling has been my first love long before I found my way into design. With Stage5, I aim to craft narratives that surprise and inspire—infusing a diverse array of genres and themes, from poignant dramas to engaging social commentaries.
While fashion will undoubtedly play a role in my film endeavors, I refuse to box myself into any single style simply because of my background. Collaborating with talented writers and directors from various fields, I look forward to blending my visual storytelling experience with cinematic narratives, hoping to create something fresh and resonant.
In essence, the future is bright with possibilities, and together—through the unwavering partnership with Reliance and a commitment to our core values—we’re ready to explore new heights in both fashion and storytelling. There’s much excitement ahead, and I am eager to see where this journey will lead us.
Image Source: Manish Malhotra @ Instagram
